Winter Perennial Prep and Care

Mealy Blue Sage

Photo:  www.centraltexasgardener.org

By Debbie Roland and Emmy Ulmschneider, Master Gardeners

Did you know that fall is the time to plant native perennials?   It is now easier to do that because one of the favorite local grocery stores has partnered with Texas Native Plant Society to sell natives and nativars.  So, what is the difference between a native and a nativar?  A native plant is one that has evolved naturally over time in a particular area forming ecological ties between plants and the wildlife they support. 

A nativar is a cultivated variety of a native plant that is bred to have desired traits, such as disease resistance and/or a different size or color that appeals to humans.  And often “nativars” are the only “native” plant one can find at a nursery.   But, in terms of wildlife habitat, they are not equal because the trait that humans have selected for may not be one used by our native wildlife.  See:  https://www.nwf.org/Magazines/National-Wildlife/2016/JuneJuly/Gardening/Cultivars#:~:text=By%20definition%2C%20a%20native%20plant,never%20be%20found%20in%20nature.

And you can identify native plants v. nativars by simply looking at the plant label.   For instance, a label that says Salvia farinacea, Mealy Blue Sage, identifies a native plant and a label that says Salvia farinacea ‘Henry Duelberg’ identifies a human bred variety, nativar, of Mealy Blue Sage.  There is also an Augusta Duelberg Mealy Blue Sage, Salvia farinacea ‘Augusta Duelberg’, a white variety of Mealy Blue Sage named after Henry Duelberg’s wife!      

Regardless of whether you are planting natives, nativars, or cultivars, in our zone, late fall is the opportune time to get your perennial garden beds ready for winter.  Giving your beds the care they need now will really pay off in the coming spring and summer. 

·        Water as needed.  As we write this, current temperatures are still in the 80s so watering is still necessary.  As temperatures drop, you can cut down on watering to every other week.  Keep an eye on microclimate areas in your yard that may require water.  Cutting back on water will help the plant harden off for winter. 

·        Leave all spent foliage on the plant until late January or early February.  This gives a place for birds and insects to ride out winter as well as providing some needed food.  Around February 1 cut your perennials down to about 4”to 6” from the ground and compost healthy foliage.   

·        Work some good compost around your perennials to add winter nutrients to your soil structure.  Pour about 4” around your plants and work in with your gloved hands.  If you add aged manure to your beds, be sure that the animal producing it has not been fed anything that may have been treated with a weed killer.  Chemicals can still be active when passed through the digestion process and wreak havoc on your plants.

·        Mulch your beds for added winter insulation.  You can use chemically free hay, leaves, or your favorite commercial mulch.   Remember that the smaller each piece of mulch is the faster it will decompose and feed your soil.

Spending time now getting your garden prepped for winter means that you will have more time during winter holidays!

If you have questions, call the AgriLife office in Odessa at 498-4071 or in Midland at 686-4700.   Additional information, and our blog for access to past articles, is available at westtexasgardening.org.  Click on “Resources”.